A detailed guide to ensure you're buying a genuine silk saree

From silk anarkalis to silk sarees, this luxury fabric symbolises elegance, craftsmanship, and tradition. Cherished for its luxurious feel, intricate designs, and cultural significance, the demand for silk sarees has always been in the market, leading to a rise in counterfeit products. Fake silk sarees and suits, which are often made from polyester, are passed off as ‘authentic’ to the customers, leaving them cheated emotionally and financially.

Given the financial investment in buying silk fabric, especially during festive seasons, one needs to ensure that they’re purchasing the real deal. In this detailed guide, we’ll help you understand how to identify an authentic silk saree by delving into some methods that will help you prevent a counterfeit silk fabric.

What makes a silk saree authentic ?

To understand how to spot a fake silk saree, it’s first essential to understand what sets authentic silk apart from the fake one. Silk fabric is typically derived from natural silk cocoons, with the most popular variation being the mulberry silk. Authentic silk cannot be replicated easily, even if you’re mixing synthetic fibres. Therefore, take a keen look at these key traits.


Sheen: Real silk has a soft and subtle shine that changes colour when viewed from different angles. All thanks to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which makes it different from others.

Texture: While synthetic fabric may feel smooth on the skin, real silk will definitely have a coarse texture when rubbed against the skin, with a cool-to-the-touch sensation.

Weight: Authentic silk sarees, like the Banarasi and Kanjeevaram silk sarees, are very heavy because of the density of the silk threads used, so always feel the weight. If you think it’s significantly lighter, then understand that it’s a counterfeit.


Common types of fake silk

Polyester silk: Often marketed as art silk in the fashion business, polyester is a common counterfeit material that has a similar shine to real silk but lacks the durability and texture of real silk.

Nylon silk: This is another synthetic fibre that is often passed off as silk, but nylon has a stretchy feel that might look bright and overly smooth on the surface.

Viscose silk: While viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre, it still feels cheaper than real silk, as it lacks the cool sensation and lustre. But it can surely be difficult to differentiate it at first glance.


5 easy-to-do tests to check the authenticity of your silk

The burn test: This is one of the oldest and most reliable methods. It can be performed at home, not in a store, but it is worth your time. Take a small thread from your silk saree and burn it. Authentic silk, being a natural protein fibre, will burn with the smell of burning feather or hair, leaving a black residue that can easily be crushed into powder. But fake silk will melt and leave a hard, plastic-like residue, indicating that it's polyester.

The ring test: A non-destructive way to check the authenticity of your silk saree, in which you need to pass the entire saree through a small ring. You can use your finger ring as well. Real silk can easily pass through a small ring, especially the lighter variants like Mysore silk. But fake silk, being heavier and coarser, will struggle, giving you your answer.

The lustre test: The way light reflects on a silk saree can also help differentiate between the real and fake ones. The lustre of real silk will be soft and can change when viewed from different angles, because the unique triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre will refract light. But fake silk made from polyester will have a constant shine that will not change from any angle, indicating it is fake.

The water absorption test: Silk is known to absorb moisture, and a quick test involves placing a drop of water on the saree. If the water droplet is absorbed quickly, then it’s real silk, but if it remains on the surface, then it's a fake.

Check the price: One of the most obvious indicators is the price. Silk is a luxury fabric, and genuine silk sarees, especially the handwoven ones, do come with a higher price tag. So, if your deal seems to be too good, then understand that it’s a fake.

Always ask for certification

When you’re buying an authentic silk saree, especially an expensive one like Banarasi and Kanjeevaran, then look for a certification. The Silk Mark is a certification given by the Silk Mark Organisation of India that proves the purity of the silk used in creating the drape. Sarees with the Silk Mark label are thus tried and tested for quality and their authenticity.

Parting thoughts

Silk sarees are not just a piece of clothing, but they are a part of our rich cultural heritage, holding immense sentimental value for families. Passed on from generation to generation in some households, these silk sarees are valued like gold. But the growing issue of counterfeit silk sarees has created a huge emotional and financial hole. Therefore, it’s time that buyers need to be informed and vigilant before investing their hard-earned money into something that is a mirror image of silk and not the reality.